February 2007
A Diplomatic Offensive in the Middle East
By Melissa Dalton

There is nothing quite like traveling to a place you have only read about.

In early January, seven of us from the Middle East Studies Department journeyed to the Persian Gulf for two weeks. Although our studies had prepared us for the political, economic, and social dimensions of Kuwait and Saudi Arabia, we still discovered new aspects and experienced firsthand the customs of the Arabian Peninsula.

Of course, staying in the luxurious accommodations provided by our hosts (complete with a butler at one fine establishment!) cushioned the experience, and may have sheltered us from real life in the Gulf. However, our meetings with government, business, and societal officials underscored the complex evolution occurring in the two countries – advancing their countries through gradual reform while maintaining certain cherished traditions. High-tech infrastructure characterizes the major cities of Kuwait and Saudi Arabia; at the same time, a strong desire to preserve core family and tribal values permeates the Arabian culture.

Our travels first took us to Kuwait, a small city-state situated below unstable Iraq and less than 150 miles across the Persian Gulf from Iran. Pro-U.S. sentiment, largely due to the legacy of the First Gulf War – and increasingly rare in the Arab world today – was palpable from the moment we got off the plane.

During our five days in the capital, we attended a session of the Kuwaiti Parliament – the Majlis – and witnessed MPs grilling absent cabinet officials for their lack of response regarding critical issues of the country – including corruption and health care. Visits to the Kuwaiti Stock Exchange and the Kuwaiti Fund for Development afforded us a view of the growing Kuwaiti economy and the historical role of Kuwait as an international aid donor.

The attainment of women’s suffrage dominated Kuwaiti headlines last summer, and we had the opportunity to meet with several of the major players of the women’s movement. The charismatic leader of the suffrage campaign, Rola Dashti, who received the most votes of any female candidate in last summer’s election, charted her experiences for us in great detail and with great passion.

A conservative women’s group, whose members characterize themselves as “moderate Islamists,” explained how their leadership programs – for both girls and boys – empower young adults to become active participants in Kuwaiti society and the world while maintaining their dedication to Islam. Finally, the Women’s Cultural and Social Society – whose members constitute the elite of Kuwaiti society – remarked how women have always had a strong role in Kuwait, and are now seeking a political voice. Overall, we were surprised by the vibrancy and openness of debate in Kuwait – in the press and on the street.

From Kuwait we traveled to Saudi Arabia, the heartland of Islam, and we experienced the generosity and customs of the land. Abiding by the conservative codes of the country, women in our group donned the traditional black abaya and hijab. In Riyadh, we visited the Consultative Council – the Majlis al-Shura – consisting of appointed officials who advise the ruling Al Saud family, and met with a member of the Education Committee.

We had discussions regarding regional politics with members of the Institute for Diplomatic Studies – the equivalent of the U.S. Foreign Service Institute. At the Center for National Dialogue, we learned of how the institution created by King Abdallah promotes dialogue throughout the country among people from different layers of Saudi society.

We also talked with students and faculty at two different universities, and discussed perceptions of Saudi Arabia in the United States, and vice versa. Many believed that the image of Saudi Arabia in other countries, particularly in the U.S., constituted the greatest challenge facing the kingdom. We found it interesting that the older generation generally had a better opinion of the U.S., although they disagreed with U.S. policies; whereas the younger generation, particularly those who had not been to the U.S. or Western countries were more critical of the U.S.

Most people, regardless of age, expressed confidence in the future of Saudi Arabia and in their king to move their country forward. However, one student commented that development and progress should not be measured by the tall, expensive buildings found around Riyadh.

We also traveled to Dammam and Khobar in the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia, the bastion of oil exploration, production, and refinement. We visited the major engineering university that produces future leaders of the oil industry and toured the museum of Saudi Arabian Oil Company (ARAMCO). We were impressed by the legacy of oil in the kingdom, but had unanswered questions as to the future of the economy beyond oil. Both the Saudis and the Kuwaitis emphasized their investment in human capital – encouraging education and developing skills – as the answer for the future, but they did not indicate which industries these well-trained people will work in outside of the oil sector. 
 
We capped off our trip with an exhilarating sunset ATV ride over the dunes outside Khobar. Our hosts in Saudi Arabia and Kuwait provided us with an amazing opportunity to talk with current and future leaders of their respective countries that provided us with insights about the Arabian Peninsula that will inform the rest of our studies and careers.

Melissa Dalton is a 2nd year M.A. student concentrating in Middle East Studies